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About Baja California Sur
A place whose name is legendary for earthly paradise, Baja California
Sur is a magical place with a diversity of landscape and wealth
of regional color that distinguishes it, yet also unites it with
the rest of Mexico. Whether you’re enjoying the brilliance
of the sunsets on the red slopes La Giganta or whale watching off
the coast of the Guerrero Negro desert, Baja California offers something
for everyone. True to everything that a Mexican desert might connote,
the sierra of Baja offers long stretches of straight roads that
seem to lead nowhere, set across a backdrop of warmly hued mountains,
tropical flora and a bright, blue sky.
 The
two most popular places in Baja California Sur, La Paz and Cabo
San Lucas, both showcase the brilliance of the area, the former
offering a tranquil and serene escape and the latter perfect for
such activities as sport fishing and scuba diving. The seafood here
is incredible, ranging from lobster and clams to shark and sardines,
plus delicacies like porgy, dorado and cabrilla. Baja Sur also offers
centuries of history, with petroglyphs on the walls of canyons,
whose origins trace back to before the first known inhabitants of
the area. There are also old missions still in operation that date
back to the 18th century. And of course, beautiful lagoons, bays,
ocean and beaches with crystal blue waters and fine sand. An oasis
of natural beauty and history, Baja California Sur is a place that
everyone should go at least once, undoubtedly to be returned to
again and again.
History
 Baja
California Sur was originally inhabited by three indigenous groups:
the Pericúes, the Guayacuras, and the Cochimíes, who
were simple nomads living in harmony with the nature surrounding
them. In the colonial period, Cortés sent five expeditions
to this area because there was word of a passage that linked the
Pacific and Atlantic oceans, the discovery of which would help Spain
become more powerful. It wasn’t until the fifth expedition
in 1535 that Cortés that a colony, Santa Cruz, was founded.
However, difficult living conditions and the inability to get food,
along with the natives’ constant refusal to submit to the rule
of the conquistadors forced the Spaniards to abandon the settlement
after two years.
It was then that the area got the name of California, whose origins
trace back to a novel called "Las sergas de Esplandián
(The Exploits of Esplandián)." The book mentions an
island of the same name to the right of America, governed by queen
Califa and populated exclusively by women, where everything was
supposedly made of gold. In this respect California was named in
jest, to make light of the hardships of life there. At the end of
the 16th century, Sebastián Vizcaíno reached Cortes’
former colony of Santa Cruz and renamed it La Paz.
 When
the trade routes between the Philippines and Acapulco were established,
interest was focused on California as a potential settlement where
ships would be safe and water could be obtained. Over the course
of the next century, many Jesuit missions came to California settling
in the area from Cabo San Lucas to the north of Guerrero Negro.
From this time on, the names Old (Antigua) and Lower (Baja) California
were given to the peninsula, and the terms New(Nueva) or Upper (Alta)
for the continental area. In 1768 the missions were handed over
to the Franciscans led by Fray Junípero Serra, and later
to the Dominicans who continue with the mission centers in today’s
Baja California. By the beginning of the 19th century, most of the
present-day communities were established*Loreto became the capital
of just the peninsular area, and local governments were granted
to places in Alta California like San Diego, Santa Barbara, San
Luis Obispo, Los Angeles, and San Francisco. In 1830 the capital
was moved from Loreto to La Paz, and during the American intervention,
the people tried to defend their national sovereignty, but eventually
lost the war for Alta California. In 1888 the territory of Baja
California was divided into the northern and southern parts, with
economic activities such as mining and livestock production, agriculture,
fishing and pearl fishing. In 1973 Baja California Sur became a
state of Mexico, and the state Constitution was promulgated on January
15, 1974.
Getting there from San Miguel
To get to Baja California Sur from San Miguel, your best bet is
to fly and then rent a car once you're there. Aeromexico flies to
Baja from various points within Mexico, Mexico City offering the
best schedule. (612) 122-0091, (612) 122-0093, or (612) 122-1636).
It also connects through Tucson and Los Angeles in the United States.
Aerocalifornia, (800) 237-6225 in the U.S., or (612) 125-1023) also
has flights from Los Angeles, Tijuana, and Mexico City.
Tourist Information is available
in La Paz at Alvaro Obregón
across from the intersection with Calle 16 de Septiembre (tel. (612)
122-5939 or e-mail turismo@lapaz.cromwell.com.mx).
It's open daily 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. It can supply information on La
Paz, Los Cabos, and the rest of the region.
What to See
La Paz
 Nuestra
Señora de La Paz Cathedral
This is one of the more popular tourist attractions in La Paz. Construction
concluded in 1865, the architecture embodying the mission style
seen throughout the state. Two bell towers frame the sober church,
whose pink stone reflects the elements inherent to the La Paz landscape.
In addition to the standard elements one finds in a Catholic church,
there are also a collection of paintings from the state’s mission
temples, some of which date back to the 18th century. Additionally
this cathedral hosts the most complete ecclesiastical archive.
 Municipal
Palace
This early 20th century construction houses the local government
activities and is an impressive stone building with a tower. Originally
built to house the municipal palace, there was a brief period in
which the National Revolutionary Party (later known as PRI) had
its headquarters there. In 1972 the building returned to its original
use.
Regional Anthropology and History Museum
Altamirano and Cinco de Mayo
Come to this museum for a glimpse into the history and culture of
the state from ancient times to the present day. The exhibitions
include color photos of the prehistoric petroglyphs, or cave paintings,
as well as exhibits on such things as the geological history of
the peninsula, fossils, missions, colonial history, and daily life.
It also offers a variety of courses, conferences, exhibitions and
other cultural activities. The collection also includes one to one
scale reproductions of Mesoamerican archeological pieces. There
is also an ethno-botanical garden on one side of the museum. Admission
is free (donations accepted) and all material is in Spanish. Open
Monday to Friday, 8 a.m. to 8 p.m., and Saturday from 9 a.m. to
2 p.m.
El Teatro de la Ciudad
Av. Navarro 700
(612) 125-0486
The city theater is the cultural center, with performances by visiting
and local artists. Bookings include small ballet companies, experimental
and popular theater, popular music, and an occasional classical
concert or symphony.
Beaches/Activities
La Paz has various offshore islands that are perfect for daytrips,
whether your fancy is snorkeling, hiking, or simply relaxing on
the beach. One must-see is the famous ‘mushroom’ rock,
located in Balandra. This rock formation has become a landmark,
and is located in a tourist-oriented area, but the waters are calm
and the ambience tranquil.
Other nearby beaches include La Concha, El Caimancito, El Canguro,
El Tesoro and El Tecolote. However, the best thing for visitors
will likely be a boat trip to one of the natural wonders of the
area, the offshore islands of Espíritu Santo, and the Cerralvo
Islands. These offer exceptional beaches and are a refuge to flocks
of birds and sea lions. (For the latter, Los Isolotes is the best
choice).
 Local
dive shops have guided tours offer pick up and drop off service
from hotels, for about $35 USD per person. Great diving opportunities
exist year-round. If you’re traveling with a group, check on
hiring your own panga from the Palapa Playa Azul on Playa Tecolote.
They offer a 4-hour trip, planned by them or by you, and you may
be able to negotiate a longer trip for a fee. As of recently the
cost for up to 6 people is $100 U.S.
Cabo San Lucas
This
is the most important tourist site in the state, with six five-star
hotels, one super-deluxe hotel, over one hundred restaurants and
a great number of rental and tour agencies, as well as golf courses
and fishing boats. It was originally a fishing port with tuna packing
facilities until 1927. This is a great place to go sport fishing
, and in the wintertime fishing may be accompanied with sightings
of the largest living creatures on Earth: the gray, fin, humpbacked,
sperm and blue whales, measuring up to 30 meters and weighing up
to 150 tons. Despite being tourism-driven, Cabo San Lucas also offers
local color to its visitors, showcasing village and fishing life
evident in a simple stroll through the streets. The famous archway
carved out of the rocks by the sea has come to be an icon of this
city.
Iglesia de San Lucas
Located close to the main plaza, this is one of the main attractions
in Cabo San Lucas and was established in 1730 by the Spanish missionary
Nicolás Tamaral. The large stone structure features a large
bell in the archway to commemorate the completion of the church
in 1746. Tamaral was eventually killed by the Pericúe Indians,
who resisted his demands that they practice monogamy. This is a
great place to go to fully immerse yourself in the inherent Mexican
ambience of the neighborhood.
Cruises/Tours
 Every
day there are glass-bottom boat tours which leave the marina every
45 minutes from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. These tours offer and up and personal
look at the sea lions and other marine life, as well as pelicans.
The trip passes El Arco, where the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of
Cortez intersect, and ends at Playa de Amor. Cost for the trip is
about $14 USD for one hour.
Additionally there are a host of companies offering day and sunset
cruises. Costs range from $30 to $50, depending on the boat, time
and amenities offered. A sunset cruise on the 42-foot catamaran
Pez Gato (624) 143-3797, or e-mail pezgato@cabotel.com.mx, departs
from the Plaza las Glorias Hotel dock at 5pm. A 2-hour cruise costs
$35 and includes margaritas, beer, and sodas.
Whale Watching
 There
is a winter whale-watching tour that begins at 10:30am and returns
at 1:30pm. It costs $35, and includes open bar and snacks, run by
the same company above. Similar boats leave from the marina and
the Plaza las Glorias Hotel. Check with travel agencies or hotel
concierges for details or information about other whale-watching
tours. This one shouldn’t be missed if you’re in Cabo
San Lucas over the winter.
Food and Drink
*please email restaurant and hotel recommendations
with a short description and price ranges to info@portalsanmiguel.com
La Paz
Trattoria La Pazta
Allende 36
(612) 125-1195
One of the better and more popular restaurants in La Paz (and a
great name to boot!) La Pazta serves up Italian fare with an emphasis
on fresh seafood, such as calamari and pasta with squid in a wine
cream sauce. You’ll also find old standby favorites such as
lasagna and spaghetti. It’s also open for breakfast. The ambience
is cool and clean, and the aroma of the wood oven is heavenly.
Tequila's Bar & Grill
Mutualismo, next to the Palmas Suites B&B
This restaurant offers affordable food in a fun ambience, perfect
for the beach. The menu is rather small, featuring mostly steak,
fish, and hamburgers, but despite the fact patrons are guaranteed
to have a good time. Toward the front of the restaurant is a small
bar and sitting area up front, and in the back is a high palapa-roofed
larger bar area with pool table, television, and small barstool-type
tables. The walls are adorned with Mexican motifs. Cuban cigars
are also available.
El Bermejo
Av. Alvaro Obregón 498
This restaurant located inside the Hotel Los Arcos is one of the
more elegant eateries in La Paz. Boasting an intimate, romantic
ambience, the specialties include steak and seafood, and the lobster-stuffed
chicken is a signature item.
Cabo San Lucas
Mi Casa
Calle Cabo San Lucas at Madero
(624) 143-1933
This is the restaurant that everyone seems to recommend when dining
in Los Cabos. Located across from the main plaza, Mi Casa, as the
name might indicate, serves up hearty traditional Mexican dishes.
The menu includes such staples as chiles en nogada and chicken mole,
as well as house specialties and varying fish options that are seasoned
to perfection. The dishes are all reasonably priced. The ambience
perfectly complements the menu, as everything is brightly painted
and they use traditional pottery and glassware. Tables are situated
around a large patio.
The Office
Medano Beach between the Hacienda Hotel and the Melía San
Lucas
This is one of the three restaurants that is located right on the
beach. The tables are even located right on the sand so you can
kick off your shoes and truly enjoy the beach ambience. The menu
includes international selections of primarily chicken and seafood
dishes, with specialties offered. The food and service are both
quite good. Thursday nights there is free entertainment at dinner.
Casa Rafael’s
Calle Medano and Camino el Pescador
(624) 143-0739
While very pricey in terms of restaurants, this is perhaps the most
intimate and romantic setting you’ll find in a restaurant,
and the food is up to par. The air-conditioned rooms occupy a large
house and are all candlelit, and there is also room outside by the
pool. The meat, seafood, and pasta menus are ample, and include
such specialties as Cornish game hen in champagne sauce. Black Angus
steaks are imported from the United States; the lamb comes from
New Zealand.
Places to Stay
La Paz
Posada de las Flores
Paseo Alvaro Obregon 440
(612)125-5871
Having recently changed ownership, this reasonably priced hotel
formerly known as the Posada Santa Fe (most people probably still
know it as such, if asking for directions), is a small, elegant,
boutique bed & breakfast located on the north end of the main
plaza, facing the bay. There are double rooms, junior suites and
a penthouse master suite. It’s a very charming and cozy ambience,
with the feel of being in someone’s private home. (Indeed,
it was built for this purpose.) Rooms are tastefully decorated,
with plush, comfortable furniture. Bathrooms include a large marble
bathtub. Upstairs is a veranda for common use by guests, where breakfast
is served or for relaxing late in the day while watching the sunset.
There‘s also a restaurant and piano bar. quintasol@baja.net.mx
La Concha Resort
Carretera A Pichilingue, Km. 5
(612) 121-6344 Toll Free in Mexico: 01(800) 716-8603
In U.S., Phone Toll Free: (800) 999-BAJA
Located just five minutes from town, this is a beautiful property
right on a secluded beach. The grounds include lovely flowers and
foliage, creating a relaxing ambience with all the resort comforts
to which the modern traveler is accustomed. There is a large focus
on water sports here, and many activities are right at on site.
The facility has a tennis court on premises as well. There are standard
rooms, junior suites, plus one, two and three bedroom condominiums,
all with ocean view, mini refrigerator, television with satellite,
telephone, air conditioning and bathroom with shower.
Cabañas de Los Arcos
Av. Alvaro Obregón 498
(612) 122-2744
From the U.S. (800) 347-2252, or (714) 450-9000
This is a better value than the bigger counterpart located in front
of it, Hotel Los Arcos. What the cabañas lack (namely, the
view of the bay featured at Hotel Los Arcos) they make up for in
charm. Thatched roof cabañas are tall structures with small
fireplaces that surround a lush, tropically floral courtyard and
well-groomed swimming pool with bar. There are also some standard
rooms towards the back that are bigger than the cabañas.
All rooms come with a stocked mini-bar and coffee maker.
Los Cabos
Hotel Hacienda Beach Resort
(624) 143-0663
From the U.S. (800) 733-2226
If you’re able to afford deluxe accommodations, this is an
ideal spot in Cabo San Lucas. One of the original hotels of the
town, rooms at this resort range from garden patios, ocean views,
and beachfront cabanas to marina suites, honeymoon suites and two-bedroom
townhouses. The ambience is reminiscent of an old Mexican hacienda
and features original artwork, colorful Mexican tile, sculptures,
fountains and courtyards. There are 115 rooms on 27 landscaped acres
on nearly one mile of white sand beach. It’s a five-minute
walk into town.
Cabo Inn
20 de Noviembre and Leona Vicario
(624) 143-0819
This hotel is located on a quiet street in Cabo just two blocks
from downtown and the marina. It features basic accommodations in
a friendly setting at affordable rates. The rooms surround a lovely
courtyard that houses satellite television, a barbecue grill and
coffee for the guests’ use. Don’t miss the rooftop patio
that offers a great view and a small swimming pool. There is also
a honeymoon suite ("Juan’s Love Palace") that is
perfect for a romantic stay…it’s open air covered with
palapa and plenty of privacy.
The Bungalows
Miguel A. Herrera s/n, in front of Lienzo Charro
(624) 143-5035
Perfect for the traveler who’s looking for an authentic Mexican
ambience, these bungalows whisk visitors into a home away from home.
Tastefully decorated with terra-cotta tiles, hand painted sinks,
wooden chests, and hand blown glass, it is the attention to detail
that will grab your attention. There are 16 rooms that each have
a kitchenette, television with VCR, and nice linens. The rooms are
situated around a pool and garden, ideal for relaxing.
Side Trips
 There
are so many tucked away beach towns and villages in Baja California
Sur that you can find if you rent a car and simply drive. Everything
is close by along the southern tip of the peninsula, and you are
sure to stumble upon a treasure if you simply drive around. However,
for a great day trip, visit the two islands known as Espíritu
Santo and San José, located on the east side of the bay.
The former covers an area of 99 square kilometers and is comprised
of beautifully formed landscapes that reflect the wear brought on
by years of harsh winds and seas. Conforming to the ideal of a desert
island, Espíritu Santo is uninhabited. The Pericú
Indian population lived here until 1734, when they either fled or
were killed.
San José is the place to go to see wildlife. Occupying an
area of 28 kilometers length and 7 kilometers width, it is separated
by the peninsula by a narrow channel located at the north side of
La Paz Bay. The landscape includes rocky cliffs, beautiful coves,
and a labyrinth of canals and lagoons, as well as a large number
of mangroves that are home to a large number of various species
of birds. Sightings may include the sea hawk, crested heron, and
the white ibis, and rodents like the kangaroo rat. There are also
deer, wild goats, and the ring-tailed cat on the island. This island
is famous for the rich pearl beds that were discovered here in the
early 17th century. |
