About Veracruz

True to its nature, Veracruz is a city that indeed evokes the feel of an old tropical port. This unique ambiance is not only the result of its history as the port of Cortes' arrival to Mexico, but also the 19th century architecture coupled with the warm climate and happy-go-lucky attitude of the locals. The culture, influenced by former African slave residents and long history of foreign influence, is more open than other parts of the country-in fact, it's said that many Mexicans retreat to Veracruz for its freedom from typical social constraints.

Veracruz, often referred to as port of Veracruz, overflows with history, archaeology, natural beauty and culture. Distinguished by its zest for life that is evident in dancing couples, abundant music, and ebullient street activity, Veracruz is especially abuzz during this season of Carnival, when many tourists and Mexican nationals flock to the city to join the fiesta.

History
Originally Veracruz was occupied by primarily Totonacs, but also Toltecs and Aztecs. After the Spanish conquest, Veracruz became Mexico's most important port and connection to the outside world. Cortés first landed in the area in 1519 and settled what is now the city of Veracruz in 1598. After a long history of trade, commerce, piracy, foreign occupation and war, Veracruz benefited from an economic influx by Porfirio Díaz, and in 1872 Mexico's first railway was built between Veracruz and Mexico City.

Getting there from San Miguel
There are both frequent buses and flights to Veracruz from Mexico City, but can be heavily booked during holidays. The new bus station is about 3km south of the zócalo.

Tourist information is available, both for the city and state, at the Palacio Municipal, on the zócalo. It is open 9AM to 9PM daily, and some staff members speak English.

Highlights
Music
Music plays an enormous role in Veracruz culture. With influences from Mexico, Latin America, Cuba, and Africa, the music includes many styles and rhythms. Danzonera, marimba, jazz, Jarocha, mariachi and norteño are among the favorites. In the city of Veracruz the traditional Danzón is danced every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday in the Arms Square.

Carnival
The week before Ash Wednesday (Feb 13 this year) the city of Veracruz celebrates Carnival, probably the best in the country. On the Sunday February 10 the city holds its most lavish parade, and others continue until Wednesday. Ask at the tourist office about parade routes. Carnival starts with the burning of "ill humor," representing bad temper often in the form of an unpopular politician, and ends with the burying of "Juan Carnival". Parade floats (carros alegóricos) are colorful displays of papier-mâché, live music and flowers. And the streets are filled with dancers wearing peacock-feathered headdresses and colorful costumes along with glittery dresses and drag-queens.

What to see

Zócalo
The Plaza de Armas (also called Plaza Lerdo and Plaza de la Constitución) is thesocial center of town - a great place to start the day with coffee under the beautiful archways at a cafe, and end with a festive atmosphere of live music, entertainment and dancing.

Fort of San Juan de Uula
This fort was originally built to protect the city against invading pirates, and later became a prison infamous for its cruelty to prisoners, and for the famous people kept there. Benito Juárez organized the reform movement from the prison, and later became President.

City Museum (Zaragoza 397)
This 120 year old restored building houses artifacts that primarily focus on the history of the city, its society, culture, race, politics, the Port and pirate invasions from colonial times to present day.

Food and Drink
*please email restaurant and hotel recommendations with a short description and price ranges to info@portalsanmiguel.com
Coffee and seafood are plentiful and delicious in the whole state. Veracruz claims that it has the best grown coffee in the country and a la Veracruzana is a traditional preparation of fish made with a tomato-based sauce with onions, chilies, garlic and olives. Some high quality, but reasonably priced restaurants are close to the main Zocalo.

Seafood
La Fuente de Mariscos (corner of Circunvalación and Cortés)
A casual atmosphere and extensive menu of fish and seafood make this a great place to enjoy marimba, salsa and traditional guitar throughout the day and night. Entrees range from US $5-$10.

Mariscos Villa Rica Mocambo (Calzada Mocambo 527)
Serving Veracruz-style cuisine, this restaurant features all the seafood standards and a few Mexican rarities. Veracruz specialties include conch fillet with guajillo peppers and shrimp in orange sauce. Entrees from US $5-$12.

La Suriana 2 (corner of Zaragoza and Arista)
This restaurant's friendly ambiance and excellent seafood at budget prices make it an ideal stop. Located near the municipal fish market. Entrees from U.S. $3.50-$6.

Out and About
El Rincn de la Trova (Callejn Hroes de Nacozari, between Serdn and Arista) Lively restaurant-bar with a simple menu and large selection of alcoholic drinks. Live music on Friday and Saturday nights.

Pardio's (Zamora 40)
Located in the river mouth village of Boca del Ro 10 km south of the city center, a trip here is indispensable for many visitors. Perfect for a leisurely Sunday brunch.

Coffee
Gran Café de la Parroquia
This caf is an institution in Veracruz with its own traditions and rituals. For the full effect, order a caf lechero, and once your coffee has been poured, bang on your glass with your spoon to get the attention of a waiter who walks around with large aluminum containers of steamed milk. The sound of spoons clinking on glasses fills this open air caf known for its good coffee, pastries, entrees and ambiance.

Places to Stay
Hotel Mocambo (Boca del Río)
About 5 miles south of the city on a beautiful stretch of beach, this famous hotel was built in 1936 and has housed many Mexican presidents, movie stars and others. Its tasteful décor and open, spread out buildings have retained the charm of the 40's but the hotel also has today's amenities such as 4 pools, a Jacuzzi and tennis courts. Rooms range from about US $75-$100 per night, and most rooms overlook the ocean. Ammenities include free guarded parking, A/C, phone, TV. Major credit cards are accepted. 229-9-22-0200

Hotel Colonial (Miguel Lerdo 117)
This inexpensive hotel is conveniently located and has an old section with darker, smaller rooms, and a new section with brighter, cleaner rooms. The hotel has a pool, parking, a café and a restaurant. Rooms range from US $33-$45. Ammenities include parking, A/C, TV and phone. Major credit cards are accepted. 229-9-32-0193.

Side Trips

Xalapa
Xalapa (also known as Jalapa) is the Veracruz state capital and is located north west of the port of Veracruz, half way between the coast and the mountains. The population is about 350,000 and the hilly landscape makes it cooler and less humid than the coast. Xalapa is a jumping off point for many outdoor adventures such as mountain biking, caving and white water rafting trips. The city is surrounded by parks, mountains and many lakes.

What to See

Museum of Anthropology is dedicated to the history and archeology of the state. This is arguably the second most important anthropology museum in Mexico. The main pieces in the Museum are seven huge Olmec heads around 7 feet high.

Universidad de Veracruz is an excellent school with one of, if not the best music schools in the country. It is a great place to see concerts - check with the school for a calendar.

Parque Ecológico Macuiltépetl
Just past the antropology museum a path takes you to the wooded top of an old volcano. The area is a great place to hike or jog, and at the top there is a small museum with indiginous reptiles and birds.

White-Water Rafting
There are a number of tour organizers offering trips on rivers near Xalapa. They range from half day (about US$45 per person) to three days (about US$200 per person). Among them Ecoexpediciones (229-817-0600).

Beaches and Beyond

Beaches - The closest 'true' beach in Veracruz is Villa del Mar, located down along the boulevard. (True because most of the beaches in town are considered dirty.) Three miles farther south is Mocambo, one of the best beaches in town. Here you can rent boats, snorkeling equipment and waterskis. Past Mocambo is Boca del Río, located at the mouth of the Jamapa River, which is an excellent place to relax at an outdoor seafood restaurant and enjoy the seaside. All are easily reached by taxi or bus.

Guided Boat Trips - Guided boat toursof the harbor pass quite a few sights of interest and many international tankers and ships docked in the port. Launches leave from the dock in front of the Hotel Emporio. Cost $3-$5 adult.

Diving - Divers can explore a series of reefs and shipwrecks south of town towards Boca del Río. Contact Dorado Divers 229-931-4305.

Mountain Climbing - Pico de Orizaba, or the Aztec Citlaltpetl, is Mexico's tallest mountain at about 18,800 feet. This large volcano is a challenge often accepted by expert climbers. For more information on expeditions contact Servimont.

El Tajín - Located in Papantla, 140 miles northwest of Veracruz. An archeological must-see, these impressive ruins consist of over 150 buildings, including the Pyramid of the Niches, one of the most unusual pre-Columbian structures in Mesoamerica.